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At Celine, he dropped the accent on the “e” in Céline and introduced a new logo before his first show. His debut collection for Spring/Summer 2019 (when he added menswear) was met with “a barrage of criticism,” wrote Robin Givhan of The Washington Post. “In one evening, he blew everything Celine had ever stood for, obliterated it. His name may not be on the label, but in every other way, the brand might as well be called Hedi Slimane,” wrote Givhan. For AW19, he turned to the look of a French bourgeois girl. This time, “it was almost unanimous,” wrote Sarah Mower of Vogue Runway.
While this could arguably stifle innovation, closer scrutiny could ensure efficacy, as certain sunscreens in the US must be tested to back up the SPF listed on the label. This article first appeared on Vogue Business. Sign up for the Vogue Business newsletter for the latest luxury news and insights, plus exclusive member discounts. "Under his creative and artistic direction, Celine has grown exponentially and established itself as an iconic French fashion house," Celine said in a statement on Wednesday. "The extraordinary journey together over the past seven years has transformed Celine into a house with a solid foundation for the future." No successor has been named. Slimane became Celine's artistic, creative and image director in February 2018, after Phoebe Philo left. He was previously the artistic director of menswear at Yves Saint Laurent until 2000, when he joined Dior Homme, where he created the famous skinny look that forced Karl Lagerfeld to diet. Slimane left Dior in 2007 and returned to Yves Saint Laurent in 2012 as creative director, where he dropped the “Yves” from the name just before his first show. He left in 2016.
At LVMH's annual earnings conference in January 2018, shortly after Slimane's appointment was announced, LVMH chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault said, "His goal is to achieve at least €2 billion to €3 billion, and maybe more, within five years." At the time, Celine's sales were approaching €1 billion. Five years later, sales are expected to reach €2.6 billion by 2023, according to HSBC, making it LVMH's third-largest fashion brand after Louis Vuitton and Dior—surpassing Fendi in revenue. Slimane oversaw the launch of Celine fragrances in 2019, and cosmetics (initially in the form of a lipstick line) are expected to launch this fall.
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