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Recently, stylist Molly Dickson styled Kaia Gerber in a reimagining of the Hervé Léger gown her mother, Cindy Crawford, wore to the 1993 Oscars. "I thought it would be great to honor Cindy's iconic moment," Dickson told Vogue. A few weeks later, Susan Sarandon's daughter, Eva Amurri, re-wore her mother's 2003 Donna Karran Oscar dress to the Metropolitan Opera House Opening Gala. "Swipe all the way to see where I got this vintage @donnakarran dress," she wrote on Instagram.

Of course, there is a distinct difference between a sincere homage and appropriating an iconic moment in the hopes of creating your own. I won’t name names for the latter, but sometimes the results can seem lifeless and stale. In the former, a sincere homage that comes to mind is Miley Cyrus honoring godmother Dolly Parton’s iconic bob at the Grammys or any time Kate Middleton imitates her late mother-in-law, Princess Diana. People say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, but as someone with a sister, I have to call that bullshit. Imitation can be a sincere form of flattery, but with it comes the potential to cheapen the original by turning it into a caricature of itself. This is always the problem with imitation. Each time a look is copied, it tends to lose its original flair, just as a meme becomes more obscure as it is more memeified until, eventually, the original loses all meaning.

As I’ve watched these homages play out on my feeds over the past few months, I’ve wondered if they signal a stagnation in the fashion world. This trend—which combines two of the main pillars of American culture, idol worship and recycled nostalgia—seems similar to the current state of the film industry, churning out regurgitated IP and remaking superhero sequels. Or maybe it’s just an attempt to get ahead in an oversaturated culture—that because another celebrity wore it before you, their influence can be absorbed into your fashion. It’s like a reference to another moment is an added accessory to an outfit, like a coveted handbag. But I’m not sure how influence works, and who knows if the original celebrity would approve of the whole endeavor, anyway?

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