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If you ask anyone in Georgia what to eat in Telavi, they’ll say Doli. With design-forward Communal Hotels and Tbilisi’s acclaimed Craft Wine restaurant among others, it’s easy to see why: Large platters, called khoncha, emerge from the kitchen, filled with Georgian specialties influenced by Kakheti flavors, like phkali—a popular walnut-crusted vegetable dish served here with red pepper flakes—delicate tolma, grape leaves stuffed with buffalo yogurt and garlic confit, and soft bean hummus with sunflower seeds. Don’t miss the grilled oyster mushrooms with bazhe, too. Add their famous homemade Doli flatbreads and you’re ready for a boozy lunch or dinner with some of the best natural wines Kakheti has to offer.

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Located on the outskirts of Sighnaghi, Lost Ridge Inn bills itself as a small inn, craft brewery and horse farm. Connected to Pheasant’s Tears (see below) through co-owner and winemaker John Wurdeman, you can be sure you’ll be in for a real treat. Dinner and breakfast are prepared by the women of the village, using produce from the inn’s vegetable garden (which also supplies the restaurant). You can also take a cooking class to learn how to make khinkali dumplings or shoti bread. Come here to slow down, enjoy a delicious meal and soak up the surrounding nature.

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With no street signs and just two tables outside, Odlisi Cheese is a true hidden gem tucked away in a picturesque Telavi courtyard. One of Georgia’s few artisan cheesemakers, the family business is run by head cheesemaker Rati Rostomashvili, while his wife Maka and daughters welcome guests to the quaint cheese shop and bar next door. Opened in 2022, they now offer up to 32 different raw cheeses: there’s one with walnuts, nettles, truffles and even cumin. Book ahead if you want to sample the many cheeses paired with wine, which take place inside the stone walls of a former schoolhouse, with charming candlelit rooms that make for a unique dining experience.

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