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The designer who has the most compelling shows, at least for me, is Jonathan Anderson. Both at his own place and at the houses he represents, he seems to be engaged in a process of distillation and etherealization, reducing collections to unique looks in unique materials shaped through his unique filter. He works for the biggest group of them all, but his perspective and products are as independent and distinct as any designer you can think of. Plus, he sells. That’s a sure recipe for fun. —Luke Leitch
Another strategy for getting through tough times is to lean on pieces or themes that you know your audience wants: the greatest hits approach. To a greater or lesser extent, we’ve seen this at Saint Laurent (where the founder is the code), Prada (with cool classics sprinkled in between new pieces), Miu Miu, Balmain, Fendi, and even Valentino, which, despite its designer references, leans into its founder’s archive more as a way to establish lineage than anything else. I really like Adrian Appiolaza’s take on Moschino.
Yet, more often than not, this season you can detect on the runways the general distress of an industry that, at the moment, consumers are not consuming. This has led many designers to turn to humanity's other favorite pastime: Sex and sensuality seem to be one of the biggest themes of the month. Personally, I think Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood, Jun Takahashi at Undercover, and Nadège Vanhee at Hermès have explored this territory most interestingly. It's also fascinating that both Balenciaga and Dolce & Gabbana have approached the subject in adjacent and overlapping ways. The young independent model who seems to benefit most from this trend is Nensi Dojaka: I'm a little excited to see how Victoria's Secret reinvents itself around this theme again, but I think the most effective thing they can do is hire her.
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